The Christmas season Europe is like nothing I have ever experienced, and it’s only the second week of Advent. Every corner is bedecked with lights (most of which are flashing in one way or another), bows, stuffed animals, and goodness knows what else. Christmas trees made of chocolate, pretzels, spice bread, macaroons, more Christmas lights, or stacked boxes of mulled wine abound, and the typical “consumeristic” spirit is found in everybody perusing the shops downtown.
I already know this next month will be like none I have ever experienced.
Advent began with my recital on the 1880/1893 Eugène and Maurice Puget organ Notre-Dame du Taur in Toulouse, featuring the Bach Leipzig chorales on Nun komm der Heiden Heiland and the phenomenal Symphonie Gothique of Widor, with its Puer nobis est. This chant for Christmas day may have appeared on the wrong end of Advent (since my recital was on the first weekend of the season) but, together, the Lutheran Advent chorale- and Gregorian chant-based works made a glorious combination of “styles in G” on this stunning organ.
Not only was I able to simply play the program, I was also able to briefly talk about it on Radio Présence, a Catholic Radio station of the Midi-Pyrénées region of Toulouse and its surroundings. My first radio interview was not only on French radio—it was in French! Feel free to listen to it here, although you will have to forgive me for the mistakes, a few references, and for my accent—I learned so much and I hope to have the opportunity to do it again at some point… I already know a few things I would improve!
This past weekend consisted of another unforgettable trip across the country. I travelled with Katie Minion, another Fulbright organ scholar studying alongside me in Toulouse, up north to Paris where we pursued two things: beautiful organs and Christmas.
Even after a 7.5-hour train ride on Friday afternoon, we were still up for the 2-hour trip to Strasbourg Saturday morning, the (almost) northeastern-most point of France and the capital of the Alsace region. This city also claims the title “the Capital of Christmas” and held the first Christmas market in Europe: in 1570 under the name of Christkindelsmärik (market of the Infant Jesus). Rather an auspicious beginning for our “search” for Christmas.
Walking out of the train station in Strasbourg, we were greeted with one of the eleven Marchés de Noël that can be found throughout the city. Snacking on spaetzle and drinking mulled apple juice, we explored the dozen or so dozen stands only a dozen yards from the train station exit… before realizing we should probably go further into the city.
The streets were adorned with trees (both the real kind and the made-out-of-lights kind), Christmas ornaments, and countless other colors and lights from store windows. The famous Christkindelsmärik Christmas tree, at a mere 30 meters or so (about 100 feet tall), drew us right to the center of town, where we proceeded to stumble upon Christmas market stalls on what seemed like every corner, interspersed between the beautiful half-timbered architecture. These stalls were bursting with French, German, and Alsatian specialties (we had to sample the white sausage, traditional cookies, and the mulled white wine, of course!), as well as unique (or kitschy, if desired) Christmas ornaments, all sorts of Christmas or New Years cards, sweaters, hats, candles, and an unlimited number of handicrafts. Thankfully, I had come to Strasbourg more to look (and, naturally, to eat) than to buy, or I would probably have very little pocket money left for the next few months!
Overlooking one of the largest markets in the city was the Cathedral of Strasbourg, with its nearly 600-year-old façade looming behind these gaudy stalls selling food, drink, and other such items. It was certainly an anachronistic arrangement and I couldn’t help wondering, while sipping a hot chocolate overlooking the thousands of people browsing the merchandise, how many different Christmas markets this façade has seen since the 16th century… and how different they all must have been.
Sunday found me back at Versailles, where I met the beautiful organ Chapel of the Chateau once again. This time, I was able to play for over an hour and a half, in the middle of the day. Quel rêve ! The singing quality of the stops and the “rightness” of the registrations coupled with the music made me wish I could stay for another twelve hours and simply bathe in the sound. I think a few hundred tourists probably have pictures and videos of me playing de Grigny and Couperin…
Even better, Michel Bouvard gave a presentation of the organ to musicians and non-musicians alike, inviting visitors to the tribune of the organ to see and hear the instrument. He also played four-hand organ pieces with his wife, Yasuko Bouvard, and they were joined by their daughter—a wonderful violinist—for some other stylistic works. After playing the instrument, being able to hear it in the room and listen to the interplay of the acoustic was even more of an education, especially beneath the fingers of these phenomenal musicians.
On Monday, we explored Paris or, rather, parts of Paris, since the city is far too overwhelming to tackle in a lifetime, let alone in a day! I visited St-Étienne-du-Mont, of course, and then met Katie at the Basilique Saint-Denis, where we explored this Gothic masterpiece and the Royal necropolis beneath. Standing somewhere that has experienced so much of the past, and that holds so many memorials to these major players of history, is a humbling experience. What a privilege to be able to learn just a little bit about it all.
Some of the best parts of Paris are those seen while walking, so we proceeded to walk nearly halfway across the city, from the amazing Crêperie Le p’tit Grec near the Pantheon (I didn’t really need to eat for the rest of the day after lunch—I visit this crêperie every time I come to the city), past the Louvre and the Opera, all the way to Haussmann Printemps to watch the sunset over the Eiffel Tower. And what a sunset it was.
To finish our day full of touristic exploration, we braved the crowds at the marché of the Champs Élysées and did some window-shopping on this “fifth avenue” of Paris. I think I found a few New Years Eve dresses that I could put up with… but most were at least a few hundred Euros out of my price range!
On our final day (of this trip) in Paris, Katie and I headed to the 19th arrondissement, where you can find the Cité de la Musique: the Paris Philharmonic, the Musée de la musique, and the Paris Conservatoire. We spent far too little time (only an hour or so) exploring the Musée de la musique. This houses thousands of musical instruments (the website boasts over 7,000, with about 1,000 on exhibit) from the last six centuries. Visitors are given headsets through which they can listen to the instruments and their history as they pass through the five floors of the carefully organized collection. Of course, I had to take pictures of all of the keyboard instruments, as you can see below. If only I could have tried the pianos instead of gazing at them longingly! My one criticism is that the museum has only a few small positiv organs, but perhaps that is simply from lack of space, since I’ve heard that real estate in Paris can be rather expensive. A church-sized concert space with a dozen instruments might be a bit much…
Thanks to the generosity of the Parisian Christmas spirit, I was let onto the plane even without my passport, which I had left in my apartment in Toulouse. I mean, why carry it with me when I might lose it and not have it when I need it… like at the airport?!
I’m still chasing Christmas, although I’m now looking closer to my French “home” in Toulouse, rather than all the way in the north of the country in Paris and Strasbourg. This season in Toulouse is one to remember and I can’t wait to share it with you all!